Since Florida-based Los Molcajetes opened one of its Mexican restaurants near the Haltom City border just a year ago, jalapeño lovers have been lucky diners.

Despite two other restaurants in Florida, this new location comes off as a refreshing, unusual place to eat.

From warm, crisp tostadas and salsa to the dessert selection, Los Molcajetes serves traditional Mexican dishes with a personal spin.

Two salsas accompanied the chips. Rich, tomatillo, green chili and jalapeño salsa tasted icy hot and refreshing on a muggy day. Cilantro flavor cut in as a second act in each bite. The rich, almost creamy, red salsa hinted at chipotle (smoky) flavoring. However, none of the dark-brown outspoken peppers were detectable, making this version very different.

We were content with our iced tea until we saw a waitress go by with an arctic-looking beer schooner garnished with a lime. What a time to be on the clock!

The feeling of injustice soon faded as we were consoled by our appetizer, beef fajita quesadillas ($6.25). Appreciably greaseless, grilled flour tortillas sandwiched rich and satisfying jack cheese and delightfully marinated, tender chunks of flank steak.

With summer fare in mind, we would have selected the red snapper entree; however, today's catch was still out to sea. The server informed us that they were out of fish except for catfish. Just as well, because quail – a dish titled "Try Them the Mexican Way" ($8.99) – had amazing flavor.

Two split, roasted birds filled half of a large platter. Succulent and juicy, the quail was not as rich as duck, yet not as predictable as chicken; exotic, not gamy. What really rocked our world was the dish's guajillo pepper sauce.

Waves of flavor billowed in our mouths as we mopped up the sharp chili gravy with thick, moist, chewy corn tortillas hot off the griddle. Yikes! It was good.

And we've not even gotten to the side dishes. A monster blob of refried beans eclipsed what other restaurants pass off. When was the last time refried beans were so rich and flavorful you couldn't put down the fork? The Spanish rice was fluffy as down and evenly spiced.

After all that, who had room for dessert? We did – especially for a cherry chimichanga ($3.25). Don't split one; it's too good to share. Pastry wrapped around sweet cherry pie filling, drenched in caramel sauce, topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream tasted wonderfully like cherry cobbler with a south of the border twist.

With a modern look, Tejano music, a bar television for sports-viewing and a sharp, friendly staff, Los Molcajetes just might have the recipe for success.